Category Archives: Travel

Sacred valley tour

Today we had to get up relatively early to catch our bus for the sacred valley tour. Fortunately we made it in time and had a very nice guide. I liked this tour more than the tour around Cuzco yesterday, because we spent a higher percentage of the trip outside the bus.The ruins and their history was also really interesting – it’s just a pity the photos always look ten times less magnificent than the originals.

For me it’s quite funny how widespread the use of Facebook is over here, it’s even more extreme than in Germany though Smartphones are far more luxurious over here than in Germany. The tour guides refered to Facebook several times. Another strange thing I noticed is people taking pictures with their iPads. Apart from the poor quality of the iPads camera it looks quite strange to take pictures with that (for a camera) giant thing.

We had an included lunch with this tour which was very touristic – crowded and relatively low quality. Afterwards in Ollyantaitambo we had some free time and the Pervians went to the train station to buy there tickets for our ride to Cuzco tomorrow. It’s quite a chaos – there are trains specifically for Peruvians with far lower fares, but it seems as if the tickets can only be bought at the station and not more than a day in advance. Thus they couldn’t reserve the return tickets. We walked around and took pictures a little bit too long, so our bus was waiting and we appologize multiple times. The infamous “hora peruana” that everybody sticks to in Lima seems not to work here, we already experienced that yesterday. Actually it was bad planning to go back to Lima at all, because we would leave for Ollyantaytambo again directly the following day to take the train to Aguas Calientes.

Adrenaline and city tour in Cuzco

The morning started a bit chaotic with us getting up early and having to wait for the chicas a pretty long time. Additionally it turned out we had to pay the hostel and buy a tourist pass on top of the tour price which should be all-inclusive. Although I’m normally easy going when doing things with Peruvians I regretted not being able to use the time in Cuzco more efficiently by for instance just walking up some hills, enjoying the view and maybe find a Geocache 😀

Our city tour was scheduled to start after lunch and some wanted to do bungee-jumping before, so we took a taxi to the Action Valley. It was a really nice place with much sun and in between beautiful mountains. I had not signed up, because I was a bit afraid after seeing people do bungee-jumping from an old bridge into the Cañon of Autisha, but here everything looked nice and safe, but it was relatively expensive (120€ for bungee-jump and slingshot) for Peruvian standards. It was a lot of fun to watch the others jump from 120 meters though.

Afterwards we were running short on time, having a good lunch at the same restaurant as yesterday evening and arriving a bit late for our city tour. Our tour operator wasn’t very happy – it seems that the infamous “hora peruano” doesn’t not exist in Cuzco (which is a good thing I think).

The tour itself felt a bit strange – riding the bus from point to point, walking around  a few meters and getting back into the bus. I don’t remember ever doing a tour like this, but what we saw and the guide explained was really interesting. It’s really incredible what the ancient cultures created.

In the evening we went to a club right at the main square (don’t remember the name) until 3 a.m. It was very crowded with both Peruvians and international travelers and we enjoyed it a lot, although we knew we wouldn’t have much time to sleep afterwards.

 

Learning the hard way – Traveling to Cuzco

I made several mistakes today that in combination resulted in my bagpack getting stolen, but let’s start from the beginning.
I was actually believing the advice on my bus ticket, that it would somehow be necessary to show up an hour before departure. In the end luggage check-in started exactly when the bus should already be leaving, so that was a mistake.
Second problem was I talked two two travellers from New York and believed they could watch my two backpacks while I was looking for the restroom. Third mistake was leaving my things a meter away from them. In the end the small backpack was gone after just being away for 90 seconds 🙁 They remembered someone, but they sweared they didn’t see him taking anything.
Luckily I had my money and credit cards with me and also my almost holy passport (as it contains the U.S. visa). Still I lost my Kindle, keys, sunglasses, Leatherman and some small things.
After that I boarded the bus with relatively bad mood, although I was astonished about how calm I took the situation. Also all the carefully selected food and drinks for that 20-something hours ride were gone :-/
Actually what I was upset about most is the inefficiency of such a robbing. I have to spend a lot of time and money to buy everything again, print my flight ticket to go back to Lima etc. while except for the food all things have almost no value (the bagpack was old and starting to fall apart, the sunglasses were expensive but also had some scratches and I am not sure whether they know how to break the Kindles password protection).
Stuck with nothing to read I had to watch the movies, which kept getting worse, but the Spanish was actually good to understand and I believe I learned a lot. As I only two thirds of a seat (the women next to me was sharing hers with her child) I went to the back of the bus enjoying the view for almost two hours. As I was a bit paranoid now, I had not taken the camera into the cabin, so no pictures.
The service and driving style were very good, we even got food and drinks.
We also made several stops, but mostly very short and it didn’t cost us much time in sum.
Thankfully Cuzco has a central bus station (in Lima every company has its own) and I was already awaited and taken to our hostel were I met the rest of the group (7 Peruvians and one guy from Spain).
We went to have some food and afterwards walked a bit through the city where I used the chance to buy a new bagpack and sunglasses.
Now we’ll catch some sleep as we have a good program for the next days.

Sunday: Lunahuaná

There’s a tourist guide living in the Casa Roja for three years now and we were lucky he organized a tour to Lunahuaná for us. We had a really nice car with plenty of legspace for the
3 hour ride each trip. Lunahuaná is very beautiful, lives mainly from tourism and the sun shines almost always.
We went with 4 guest from the house (including our guide) and the family owning the Casa Roja, so we were 8 in total.
Our first activity was rafting, but we were all in a pretty large boat and thus it was not much of a problem cruising the pretty tough river. Afterwards we used the chance to swim a bit,
and noticed how strong the current really was. I actually wanted to cross the river, but it turned out to be almost impossible or at least dangerous, so I didn’t try.

After enjoying a nice vegetarian lunch (the family owning the house and some of the guests are vegeterians) we crossed the river on a ropeway and took a nice walk. A local showed us a grave with a
mummy he claimed was 3000 years old (we didn’t believe it, but it was still impressive) and a collection of human bones and skulls. He also told us very interesting stories about the history of the place.

So we had a very nice day and enjoyed the pure air and sun!

Good start into the weekend :)

Friday the German majority in our house got a bit stronger. We’re now 4 with gender equality 😀

Our traditional soccer match was scheduled for noon today, so I didn’t have to rush to the Bioféria early in the morning but instead went with a group from the house. We took a nice group picture, because there was plenty of sun after a full week of mist.

Shortly before we were scheduled to go my collegue told me he didn’t feel well so I went with Domingo, who had just arrived in Lima, to IBM by taxi. We had a really nice game and rewarded ourselves with probably the best ceviche I ever had at Punto Azul in La Molina. Before we left I used the opportunity to take some pictures of the IBM premises. It’s only one week till the national holiday of Peru (fiestas patrias) and the government passed a law that every house or office needs to have a Peruvian flag. I think with it the IBM office looks even better 🙂

Weekend

After getting home safely from the amazing IBM party at about midnight using micros Saturday was soccer time again, on the way to IBM we had to face heavy traffic because the police couldn’t pass a bridge – they had a Peruvian flag mounted on their vehicle 😀 Luckily they seem to have realized that early enough, but they were standing right where cars enter the hightway and had difficulties driving back obviously.

Together with a new girl in the house from Frankfurt I went to a very nice park (“Magic Circuit of Water Fountains”) in the evening – really amazing although I got quite wet. Must be really fun in summer. They also had a lot of interesting information about water (e.g. showing the pollution of the river Rimac, where Lima gets 80% of its drinking water from)

Sunday was really bad weather, it was raining most of the day (although very very light rain) and relatively cold. I didn’t do much the whole day and really regretted to not have gone to Caral early in the morning. Anyway I did some planning for my vacations in about one month 🙂

The national museum (finally)

It’s really winter right now, always grey and cold (18-20°C), so I decided to finally visit a museum. The national museum is free and has different exhibitions. It is probably not the most exciting museum, but it was still interesting to walk through, especially because there are far too many ways to get to the next exhibition and it’s quite possible to end up in someone’s office (it is actually a ministry, but includes the national museum).

Yesterday I bought my bus ticket to Cuzco, when I asked it was 120 soles, at some point the cashier started talking about 110 and the bill and credit card receipt said 100 soles. Weird. I just hope I won’t regret saving money on the 20-hour bus trip.

Sunday in Huancayo

After the somewhat philosophical parts I’ll now switch to fact-based reporting 😉

Thanks to Marco we had a wonderful breakfest and headed to the huge market that takes place in Huancayo every sunday afterwards. When we entered the busy and colorful place we almost immediately bumped into the Belgians again so we continued exploring all the offerings together. The traditional handicrafts, clothes and other small things were really nice to look at though I couldn’t decide to buy anything (the others made up for that though). Additionally you could buy various food, all kinds of shoes and international brand clothes (the prices suggesting they were not genuine), cracked DVDs and software and much more. So it was really diverse and after going on a few blocks the offerings started to repeat themselves. I guess the pictures tell you more than anything I could explain here.

Afterwards we checked various restaurants for lunch and finally decided to go to a chicken restaurant. The Belgians, who had left us to check out at their hotel, were already there ready to watch the final soccer game Spain against Italy. They were right in their anticipation of Spain’s victory.

After lunch we actually wanted to go rock climbing, but in the taxi Marco decided we would go to Torre Torre, one of the few really popular tourist attractions in Huancayo. Unfortunately it was too late to invite the Belgians now, but we enjoyed it a lot. At Torre, Torre we chilled a bit, talked to a very nice Canadian family backpacking in Peru and Marco played his flute. Time passed quickly and I found myself at the train station again to enjoy the last rays of sunshine with the Belgians.

According to the train staff at the station only 100 people would be on the train now with the vast mayority of about 80 in the touristic cars. Still there were many empty seats so I convinced the Belgians to try to sneak into a touristic seat. It didn’t take long until we were thrown out, but we were told we could upgrade for 15 soles (4,50€) which would be well worth it. Unfortunately it tourned out they wanted to have 120 soles in reality, which was too much obviously. So we each got four seats in our clasico car and made ourselfs comfortable. Some elderly Peruvians were upgraded for free. We found that fair because it was getting very cold at night and even we had problems sleeping in those seats.

We continued to chat a bit until we got food at 8 p.m. and afterwards everybody put on all clothes we had and tried to sleep somehow. It worked more or less, but we were still relieved to arrive well on time at 6:15 a.m. in Desamparados Station, Lima.

The backpacking experience

On sunday morning, my second full day in Huancayo I was again the first to wake up and because of the freezing temperature decided to stay in bed a bit longer. I happened to think about my experiences during the past two days and like to share some thoughts with you.

You could say this trip was my first real backpacking experience – I indeed had a huge backpack, was traveling alone, didn’t plan any activity in advance for this weekend and even stayed at a stranger’s place. On the train I guess everybody had an awesome experience, because somehow all backpackers seem to share the general attitude of being interested in getting to know people, culture and local traditions. These deep experiences and thoughts that getting rid of every-day life back home, work/study duties and all the routine things we do seem to put most of us in a kind of philosophical state. Somehow traveling together in an open and spontaneous way really binds together. It was amazing how naturally we talked to everybody else on the train, exchanged phone numbers and knowledge about the places we saw and Huancayo, our final destination. I am not someone to easily trust people I barely know, but in this case it was different. Like Couchsurfing it’s somehow a small community and at least I felt these people were somehow like me, leading to an intutitive feeling of trust.

I don’t know why we behave so much differently than I could imagine back in Europe. Is it the local culture we’re embracing, the sense of freedom away from home or just neccessity because we just don’t have a network of close friends over here?

Especially that weekend I felt is was the perfectly right decision to step out of the comfort zone and try something new and admittedly both frightening and promising in advance. It’s an extremely rewarding feeling to realize how social, friendly and plainly happy humans can tbe together without any materialism, luxury and entertainment and despite language barriers, different cultures and barely knowing each other. I’m already looking forward to my full three weeks of backpacking!

 

Saturday in Huancayo

I woke up at 7.30 without any hadache and ready to do something. Still I stayed in bed till 8 reading the New York Times, because it was so cold. Then I got up and enjoyed the sun a bit on the rooftop before having breakfest. Marco had told me he will work from 9 to 11.30 but when I got back up to my room I met him and Jana (also German, Marco had met her in Huaraz and told me yesterday evening she was arriving today) was already there. Marco headed off to work and I had another breakfest with Jana talking about various stuff for hours until Marco called us to meet at the Plaza Major downtown at noon, so I quickly told the Belgian couple and we headed off using a colectivo, a taxi that picks up everybody who wants to join on the way up to 6 passengers, but we were lucky to only drive with 2 others.
When we arrived I was astonished about how many friends Marco had invited, our group now consisted of 2 Peruvians, 4 Italians, 2 Germans and 2 Belgians. At first Marco didn’t like to have such a large group, but in the end we took 2 (!) taxis to Huayucachi. Since we even had to take our luggage into the cabin there wasn’t much space and I was really happy when we arrived. There was a small festival ongoing and we were all hungry, so loocked around. There were two tables with old women serving food. We split up because the Belgians and I wanted to have cuy (guinea pig) and the others had chicken. The cuy was tasty, comparable to rabbit or chicken.
Afterwards we started our walk in a small street. We saw some baby dogs which were really cute, but when we had already passed them their mother came and barked at us protectively so we went a little bit faster. She still came after us and unfortunately I was last so she bit me, but luckily I wore a jeans, so her teeth didn’t reach my skin. Still it was a pretty strong bite and bled a little bit, but I don’t want to know what had happened to the girls with shorts. At that moment I also thought it was good to have the rabies vaccination.
The trek itself was very nice and we talked a lot. Marco was very entertaining and played his flute a lot. He also told us a lot about the history of Huancayo and we saw a church, that was built by the Spaniards in the 16th century being one of the first catholic churches in Peru.
We were in the sun almost all the time, but I was again a bit worried about getting sunburnt as I still only have spf 45.
We reached the top of one mountain at almost 3800 meters and the view was breathtaking. It felt like being on top of the world 🙂
Only minutes after we took the pictures at the top the sun was hiding behind some other mountain and it quickly got dark. The way back was just climbing down offroad and much stones were loose, so it was impossible not to fall sometimes. We were just lucky the moon was shining bright, othereise we would probably still be somewhere in that mountain searching for the way. When we arrived back at were we started we were a little bit afraid to encounter that dog again, but fortunately we didn’t. Instead of having to take a taxi we went by microbus this time back to Huancayo, which was equally crowded but cheaper.
Back to Huancayo Jana,Marco and wanted to go to a vegetarian restaurant, but it was closed, so we ended up in a chifa, but still had vegetarian food.

Afterwards we were all pretty tired so we showered and went to bed relatively early again.